I said goodbye to the Great Lakes today and headed for the northern edge of the country where I will turn west. I was listening to my traveling music on the iPhone and liked this one Steve Miller Band
I left the park campground and my campsite this morning refreshed and ready for the road. I slept like a baby after the fireworks display... and after I hunted down and destroyed the half dozen or so mosquitos that came into the tent with me. The weather was more moderate this morning and the temperature more like what I was expecting. The ride was a succession of small towns, wetlands, forests, small town, wetland, forest, etc., etc., etc. In the city of Ashland I came across a local car club and their show. It wasn't real big, but there were some truly neat cars there. For a mere $35K I could have had a 69 Camaro convertible... one owner... and impeccably restored.
If only I were rich!
And there was one surprise jewel nestled in amongst the small towns through which I rode. As I rode through the village of Poplar, Wisconsin, I noticed it had a historical marker. I pulled over, curious to see what had happened in this tiny place that deserved a plaque. The memorial was a tribute to Poplar native Major Richard "Dick" Bong, Medal of Honor winner, and highest scoring US fighter ace of WW II.
OK, maybe this wouldn't be the jewel in your day, but for me it was very special. I flew fighters and was wrapped in the mystique of the 'knights of the air' from an early age. Major Bong was one of my heros as I grew up and learned about flying and what it took to be a fighter ace. Richtofen, Hartmann, Sakai, Bong, were all men I looked up to and wanted to emulate.
I flirted with the shore of Lake Superior until I turned the corner at Duluth. My impression of Duluth? It didn't smell very good. From what I saw, and I'll admit my view was limited to what I could see from US 53, the city was primarily industrial and shipping. The cargo dock area was particularly unattractive and had the odor of, for lack of a better word, industry. I don't need to go back there.
The area north between Duluth and International Falls was marked with an amazing regularity in its roadside scenery. More forest, more wetland, streams, rivers, lakes, and the occasional small city. It was beautiful but it definitely lacked variation. Some vague need to see 'what's over the next hill' called to me and I'd like to walk back into the woods to see how far back the seemingly endless forest really goes. The old French Voyageurs who hauled furs through and out of this country in canoes must have experienced the same call to explore. Between the mosquitos and the seemingly impenetrable forest those old explorers and back woodsman must have been a special kind of tough.
it looked like this
and sometimes like this
but mostly like this
Water, water everywhere and me without a fishing rod! Rivers, lakes, and ponds abound along this stretch of road and I'd really like to come back some day for a fishing trip. It would have to be a good time. A few days ago I took a 'selfie' photo with a huge trout. When I saw this fish I just HAD to stop. I caught a lot of blue gills as a kid... but never one this big.
It threatened rain, but it was always just in front of me. That kept the air clean, the temperature around 78-80 degrees, and the wind always at my back. Good ride. Remember how I said Duluth wasn't my favorite smelling place in the world? Well, today I may have found one of the sweetest smelling places on the face of the earth. About 5 miles out of International Falls I had to pull the bike over and just smell the air. I was in the middle of acres of clover and wildflowers and fresh mown grass right after a little shower. The aroma of clover flowers and all the other scents mixed together to make the most unbelievably sweet smell I can remember in a long, long, time. Think of a whiff of vanilla... think of a classy perfume... think of puppy breath...it all falls short of what I experienced on the side of the road earlier today. I hope when I'm 100 years old I can pull up the memory of that smell.
As I drove through town looking for a place to stay I saw some things about International Falls that I really liked. Normally when I think of International Falls, if I think of it at all, is to associate it with the nightly weather report: "And the nations cold spot today was International Falls with a frigid -60 degrees...". But now that I've driven the city and talked to a few of its residents I'll always associate International Falls with a sprit of stoicism, good natured humor, and the spirit to keep going through adversity. The couple who own this motel celebrated their 50th anniversary today and the old gentleman took his bride out to dinner for some fresh fish at an upscale local fishing lodge. ("It was a special day don't ya know."). As John looked over my big motorcycle and listened as I told him about my odyssey he lamented that he'd never done it, "I always wanted to," he said, "but now I have this balance problem ya know and my motorcycle just sits there. Anyway, I get more use out of my snow machine, what with summer being the busy time at the motel, with all the fishermen, ya know.".
As I drove through town I went by the local high school sports stadium and was impressed by two things. First, the architecture of the gate house. It was right out of 1939 Berlin and could have easily decorated a part of the Olympic stadium there. Art deco? I don't know, but it spoke to me of a culture of pride in physical accomplishment and the importance of pushing yourself to be the best you can that I'd like to think still endures to this day. The other thing that impressed me was the quote on a building just inside the stadium. "The Task Ahead Of Us Is Never As Great As The Power Behind Us.". I believe this is true not just in high school sports but in many aspects of life today. It's certainly true for me and it would behoove me to not forget it. I have the support of a great wife and family and am blessed with many good friends. I'm sure my friends back in the Evergreen Community Church of Christ would also agree with the sentiment and can certainly wrap their heads around the concept of 'the power behind us'.
The last thing I'll take away from my time in International Falls is the incredible strength shown by those of us who utilized the local Laundromat (none of the motels have laundry facilities for some reason). It was hotter than the gates of hell in there and noisy as a foundry... but we all persevered and got the job done. Never underestimate the importance of clean socks and underwear.
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